Low-Inductance Miniature Arc-Switch {PCB based]
Sunday, September 6, 2015
World War III stated about a year ago.
Wave after wave of forced immigration.
Forced?
The flood of refugees is a created thing.
That is the First Strike.
Move large numbers of people into a country, and immediately the social supports in that country get tapped out.
The list is long of the resources that 'disappear' or become scarce when the refugees come.
And this is in the first few weeks of any groups arrival.
Then there is housing, food and jobs for the long-term.
Medical attention is costly, and many of the new arrivals will be in need of doctors.
So, [war-torn region] sends out wave after wave of refugees.
It doesn't cost a lot to do that, BTW.
Pass laws banning religious practices, ban their traditional music, put restrictions on the work they can do. Slant the Courts to jail members of the group for nothing. Make their day-to-day lives intolerable. Throw in some random murder, and the stage is set.
The down-trodden group will be showing up on the shores of the nearest country that has poor relations with the bad place they are leaving.
So [Syria] gets to purge their country of undesirable peoples, Europe gets burdened by the crush of caring for so many, and then the Second Strike hits.
Second Strike?
These refugees are overwhelmingly of one Faith: Islam.
And Islam is clear on the fate of the non-believer. You either convert, become a slave, or are killed as a threat to the Faith. There are no other options.
So what if the Sunni refugees were horribly abused by their Shiite government?
The distinction between a Sunni beheading and a Shiite car-bomb is lost on me.
One is simply more fundamental, the other more accommodating.
But both read the same Koran, both believe the Koran to be the ONLY book that should exist, for everyone, forever.
Strike Two will occur about 2-5 years after the 'problem that started it all' is resolved.
Even if 1 out 100 refugees are radicalized or were 'sleeper agents', that is an Army that has had time to get jobs, become neighbors and friends, know where everything is, and how well it is guarded.
The Third Strike will be when the country that sent out this wave of Soldiers attacks their neighboring countries, forcing an already strained EU/NATO response. Another War, overseas.
Can't win a war on that many fronts.
Agents blowing up vital services [telecom, power and water disruption], massacres, rioting in the streets, political infighting, police strained to breaking, military powerless to stop diffused attacks, war raging overseas.
A country so attacked cannot hold.
EU? Been nice knowing you.
NATO? Good luck!
America, keep your borders tight!
Thursday, September 3, 2015
There is a rash of 'Didn't do nothin' defenses offered up, and some claim this proves that black Americans have something wrong with them. Can't they tell right form wrong, thug-life from real-life?
This is not about race.
In the gangster movies, wasn't there some old Italian matron, weeping as they took her 'good boy' away?
I see no difference.
There is an underlying social thing working here: The 'good boy' never killed, beat or robbed anyone in his own family.
Just like the Cheer-leaders Dad that hides bodies after an accident, the crimes done by your family against others can be forgiven. Right?
I mean, if he killed grandpa, you might turn him in.
Killed a total stranger? There would be a debate about the cover story.
This is not about race.
In the gangster movies, wasn't there some old Italian matron, weeping as they took her 'good boy' away?
I see no difference.
There is an underlying social thing working here: The 'good boy' never killed, beat or robbed anyone in his own family.
Just like the Cheer-leaders Dad that hides bodies after an accident, the crimes done by your family against others can be forgiven. Right?
I mean, if he killed grandpa, you might turn him in.
Killed a total stranger? There would be a debate about the cover story.
Saturday, August 22, 2015
I am feeling better now.
The whole Instructables thing is behind me now.
I know that I have mad-skills, and posting to a site geared toward absolute beginners was a mistake.
Yeah, I can solder. Could I teach you? Definitely.
Would I take the time to create an Article titled "How to Solder"? No.
There are dozens of skills that a Builder has picked over years of 'doing the work'.
Passing on the distilled experience of all those year of to people who are 'just browsing' is a pain.
Drilling, for example.
Drilling Wood takes one skill. The sound, the feel as the drill bites into the wood, the smell of proper cutting versus burning, the tendency of the drill to 'wander' as it cuts through the wood-grain.
Drilling at angles to the grain can guide a drill-bit quite a lot.
More than just 'technique', you have to read the piece of wood, figure out how it wants to be drilled..
Drilling Steel takes a different set of skills. The sights/smell becomes more important than the sound. Hot metal chips, cutting-oil smoking. Knowing when the drill-bit is too sharp to cut cleanly, or too dull to cut at all.
Drilling sheet-metal, or thin stock in general takes another 'skill-set'. Clamping an over-sheet and backing-block to a thin piece of work prior to drilling is its own 'task-list'.
How do you clamp? What kind of clamp? What kind of material for the top-cover or backing-block?
Drilling Brass and some plastics requires a 'scraper' drill-bit. No sharp cutting-edge, but a scraping action that removes flakes of material instead of long curls. Why? Brass is soft enough that a sharp bit 'dives' into the surface, trying to cut more than it really can. This tears the metal, binds and breaks the drill-bit.
Drilling plastics. About 12-18 Chapters on this to do it justice. Acrylic drills very differently than Lexan. Both have similar properties, but deep-drilling [holes deeper than 5 drill-bit diameters is considered very deep in plastics!] concentrates heat in the plastic. The plastic expands when heated. The plastic expands into the hole being drilled!
The drill bit cuts away the expanded plastic. Plastic cools, rough and over-sized hole is the result. Except Acrylic can actually melt onto the drill bit! If that drill-bit stops rotating while in the hole, the plastic solidifies, and the drill bit is now part of your Project.
Cutting fluid is used as a coolant ONLY! Not lubrication, not any other action. If the drill bit comes out of plastic and is hot to the touch, slow down and keep it flooded!
Drilling Stainless Steel. Sometimes Stainless says "No, not cutting today." It does that. Gets too hard to cut, but only if your fist attempt to cut it failed. Called work-hardening.
Stainless alloys are like that. When 'new', they cut and finish nicely. But if the surface gets compacted [shot-peening, hammer-blows, file dragged across the surface backwards, dull tool-bit, too shallow of a cut, being bent...long list] the alloy becomes tool-steel. Just as hard, and sometimes MUCH harder than any of your cutting tools. Handy for making new tools, not so handy for making a spice-rack.
Drilling Aluminum asks the question: Which alloy? Some drill easily, others are gummy and stringy and still others make dust rather than long curls. Each alloy needs different cutting fluids. Cutting fluids. Chemistry. Haz-mat. See where this goes?
A task as simple as "drill a 3/4" hole here" has an entire conversation in the background.
How fast is the drill motor? If the only drill-motor you have is an old Craftsman one-speed, you may need to modify your technique, use a different drill-bit. Consider getting a better drill-motor.
You have a variable-speed drill-press? Then your holes will be better, your work-load much less.
What is the material? This makes a huge difference in type of drill, and how fast to spin that drill [see above], and how much material per second you can safely cut. By safely, I mean safe for the drill-motor, the work-piece and the drill-bit.
Is cutting fluid is needed? Kerosene or very light oil for Brass, dry for Copper, liquid soap for most Aluminum/plastics [unless it fizzes. Then use something else], heavy oils for Steel. A blend of Unicorn sweat, Panda tears [Thank, Tom!] and liquefied optimism is the cutting fluid for Stainless Steel.
How fast [RPM], to cut? Copper cuts very slowly, so the drill-bit turns slow, but with firm pressure.
Some aluminum cuts well at high-speed only. Experience is your guide here.....
How importance is the holes final appearance? Is the hole visible on a panel?
Then it should be 'pretty': Drill through a panel from the 'finished' side. Drill 'break-through' can be ugly!
If the hole MUST be clean on both sides, drill 1/2 way trough from each side! If 'break-through' happens where no one can see it, all is good. Consider pilot-drilling. Small hole through a panel that guides a larger drill.
Counter-sinking to break the edges of the hole, masking the panel-face until all the work is done all help for neat appearance.
Does the finish inside the drilled hole matter? Are you making a tiny steam-engine, and need smooth walls inside the Cylinder? Then get a lathe or a Mill. Or under-drill by a tiny bit, and finish the Cylinder with a Reamer. And that tool needs its own Chapter or two.
Is this a precise and smooth hole, like a bearing? Drill-press. Hell, over-sized the hole, press in a proper bearing sleeve! Replaceable bearing sleeves make far more sense than making a bearing out of a panel. Another Chapter.....
Or does a bolt pass through, and the location/diameter the only important details? Hand-held Black and Decker is fine.
Is the location of the drilled hole the most important thing? Layout very carefully, check the layout after lunch, drill a small pilot-hole [and check that for accuracy!] and then slowly drill the final hole.
If the hole is starting out a little off center, there are ways to 'walk it home' and get it centered before the hole is finished. Hint: metal-cutting chisel...
Do you have to make many parts with identical hole locations? Stack your parts, clamp them down, and drill the stack!
Or consider making a jig. Just a little part that has some way to index your part in a know orientation/location relative to the cutting tool. Each part that fits onto the jig will be drilled with good repeatability. That means they will all be the same. They may not be right if your jig is bad, but they will all be the same.
Jigs can hold Bushings, a kind of bearing, that can be used to guide the drill-bit very precisely.
If your Project needs lots of identical parts, this is one way to go.
Oh, hand-held drill-motors: Accuracy? Level and Plumb drilling? Are your hand-drilled holes perpendicular to the drilled surface? Does it matter?
Lots of hand-helds have levels and other 'aiming tools' built in.
It is better to train your eyes to 'see' a square! How? Look at window-frames, door-frames.
They are square. Practice holding your drill so that a door-jamb is in the background. Line up the drill with the jamb, you are close to square! Practice enough, and 'square drilling' becomes a habit.
Drilled holes do not always pass all the way through!
Bee-blocks, for example, are just a bunch of 'blind' holes, drilled about the same depth. A flag of duct-tape on the drill-bit tells you when you are deep enough.
I know it looks like I am working too hard to prove how I can't teach this stuff.
I CAN teach this stuff, but not on Forums where the assumption is that absolute beginners can read my Article, and come away knowing how to drill, solder, etc.
I went round and round with Instructables Staff on this. I was posting a massive Project, which I had to break into six parts to make for logical divisions of major components.
Each Article linked to the others. There was even an Index so that it was easy to find the Sections.
Each Section covered in depth 'how it works', 'what parts/materials to get', 'assembly order/tips' and lots of measurements. I even listed part numbers and Vendors.
And lots of 'Final Product' pictures.
But Staff was adamant: Each Section needed a 'Soldering How-to', and not as an external link!
And if a Section had "drill here", then there had to be a "How to Drill" add-on.
On and on it went.
Drilling, soldering, cutting, sanding, measuring all needed the 'baby-steps' in clear detail.
One 'how-to' every one of Six Sections. And the suggestion was made "Maybe if each Soldering tutorial was a little different? We don't want our readers feeling like you cut-and-pasted the same tutorial over and over?" They were asking for each Soldering How-to to be written separately!
I do not take photos as I work. Mile-stones I will take pictures of. Major components finished are ready to use? I take LOTS of pictures.
Drilling a hole in a piece of Steel? I can do a 're-enactment' photo, but that is a 'cheat' in my mind.
If I have to start taking staged photos just for the purpose of fulfilling changing Publication Requirements, then I might as well post Articles about how to write an Instructable.
There is an old old adage: That which Knows, cannot Speak. That which Speaks, cannot Know.
This is me with tools in my hands, and parts being built.
No words, just Knowing how to make it work. Numbers become my language: proportions, ratios, sums, differences, products and quotients become my Inner Dialogue.
After the job is done, I have to back-track, figure out what I did.
Hard to form verbal memories when in a non-verbal state.
I have to look at the Parts that seem to appear in my hands for a very long time and try hard to figure out how I made them.
Then comes the really hard part: Translating what I Know into words that Speak to others.
The whole Instructables thing is behind me now.
I know that I have mad-skills, and posting to a site geared toward absolute beginners was a mistake.
Yeah, I can solder. Could I teach you? Definitely.
Would I take the time to create an Article titled "How to Solder"? No.
There are dozens of skills that a Builder has picked over years of 'doing the work'.
Passing on the distilled experience of all those year of to people who are 'just browsing' is a pain.
Drilling, for example.
Drilling Wood takes one skill. The sound, the feel as the drill bites into the wood, the smell of proper cutting versus burning, the tendency of the drill to 'wander' as it cuts through the wood-grain.
Drilling at angles to the grain can guide a drill-bit quite a lot.
More than just 'technique', you have to read the piece of wood, figure out how it wants to be drilled..
Drilling Steel takes a different set of skills. The sights/smell becomes more important than the sound. Hot metal chips, cutting-oil smoking. Knowing when the drill-bit is too sharp to cut cleanly, or too dull to cut at all.
Drilling sheet-metal, or thin stock in general takes another 'skill-set'. Clamping an over-sheet and backing-block to a thin piece of work prior to drilling is its own 'task-list'.
How do you clamp? What kind of clamp? What kind of material for the top-cover or backing-block?
Drilling Brass and some plastics requires a 'scraper' drill-bit. No sharp cutting-edge, but a scraping action that removes flakes of material instead of long curls. Why? Brass is soft enough that a sharp bit 'dives' into the surface, trying to cut more than it really can. This tears the metal, binds and breaks the drill-bit.
Drilling plastics. About 12-18 Chapters on this to do it justice. Acrylic drills very differently than Lexan. Both have similar properties, but deep-drilling [holes deeper than 5 drill-bit diameters is considered very deep in plastics!] concentrates heat in the plastic. The plastic expands when heated. The plastic expands into the hole being drilled!
The drill bit cuts away the expanded plastic. Plastic cools, rough and over-sized hole is the result. Except Acrylic can actually melt onto the drill bit! If that drill-bit stops rotating while in the hole, the plastic solidifies, and the drill bit is now part of your Project.
Cutting fluid is used as a coolant ONLY! Not lubrication, not any other action. If the drill bit comes out of plastic and is hot to the touch, slow down and keep it flooded!
Drilling Stainless Steel. Sometimes Stainless says "No, not cutting today." It does that. Gets too hard to cut, but only if your fist attempt to cut it failed. Called work-hardening.
Stainless alloys are like that. When 'new', they cut and finish nicely. But if the surface gets compacted [shot-peening, hammer-blows, file dragged across the surface backwards, dull tool-bit, too shallow of a cut, being bent...long list] the alloy becomes tool-steel. Just as hard, and sometimes MUCH harder than any of your cutting tools. Handy for making new tools, not so handy for making a spice-rack.
Drilling Aluminum asks the question: Which alloy? Some drill easily, others are gummy and stringy and still others make dust rather than long curls. Each alloy needs different cutting fluids. Cutting fluids. Chemistry. Haz-mat. See where this goes?
A task as simple as "drill a 3/4" hole here" has an entire conversation in the background.
How fast is the drill motor? If the only drill-motor you have is an old Craftsman one-speed, you may need to modify your technique, use a different drill-bit. Consider getting a better drill-motor.
You have a variable-speed drill-press? Then your holes will be better, your work-load much less.
What is the material? This makes a huge difference in type of drill, and how fast to spin that drill [see above], and how much material per second you can safely cut. By safely, I mean safe for the drill-motor, the work-piece and the drill-bit.
Is cutting fluid is needed? Kerosene or very light oil for Brass, dry for Copper, liquid soap for most Aluminum/plastics [unless it fizzes. Then use something else], heavy oils for Steel. A blend of Unicorn sweat, Panda tears [Thank, Tom!] and liquefied optimism is the cutting fluid for Stainless Steel.
How fast [RPM], to cut? Copper cuts very slowly, so the drill-bit turns slow, but with firm pressure.
Some aluminum cuts well at high-speed only. Experience is your guide here.....
How importance is the holes final appearance? Is the hole visible on a panel?
Then it should be 'pretty': Drill through a panel from the 'finished' side. Drill 'break-through' can be ugly!
If the hole MUST be clean on both sides, drill 1/2 way trough from each side! If 'break-through' happens where no one can see it, all is good. Consider pilot-drilling. Small hole through a panel that guides a larger drill.
Counter-sinking to break the edges of the hole, masking the panel-face until all the work is done all help for neat appearance.
Does the finish inside the drilled hole matter? Are you making a tiny steam-engine, and need smooth walls inside the Cylinder? Then get a lathe or a Mill. Or under-drill by a tiny bit, and finish the Cylinder with a Reamer. And that tool needs its own Chapter or two.
Is this a precise and smooth hole, like a bearing? Drill-press. Hell, over-sized the hole, press in a proper bearing sleeve! Replaceable bearing sleeves make far more sense than making a bearing out of a panel. Another Chapter.....
Or does a bolt pass through, and the location/diameter the only important details? Hand-held Black and Decker is fine.
Is the location of the drilled hole the most important thing? Layout very carefully, check the layout after lunch, drill a small pilot-hole [and check that for accuracy!] and then slowly drill the final hole.
If the hole is starting out a little off center, there are ways to 'walk it home' and get it centered before the hole is finished. Hint: metal-cutting chisel...
Do you have to make many parts with identical hole locations? Stack your parts, clamp them down, and drill the stack!
Or consider making a jig. Just a little part that has some way to index your part in a know orientation/location relative to the cutting tool. Each part that fits onto the jig will be drilled with good repeatability. That means they will all be the same. They may not be right if your jig is bad, but they will all be the same.
Jigs can hold Bushings, a kind of bearing, that can be used to guide the drill-bit very precisely.
If your Project needs lots of identical parts, this is one way to go.
Oh, hand-held drill-motors: Accuracy? Level and Plumb drilling? Are your hand-drilled holes perpendicular to the drilled surface? Does it matter?
Lots of hand-helds have levels and other 'aiming tools' built in.
It is better to train your eyes to 'see' a square! How? Look at window-frames, door-frames.
They are square. Practice holding your drill so that a door-jamb is in the background. Line up the drill with the jamb, you are close to square! Practice enough, and 'square drilling' becomes a habit.
Drilled holes do not always pass all the way through!
Bee-blocks, for example, are just a bunch of 'blind' holes, drilled about the same depth. A flag of duct-tape on the drill-bit tells you when you are deep enough.
I know it looks like I am working too hard to prove how I can't teach this stuff.
I CAN teach this stuff, but not on Forums where the assumption is that absolute beginners can read my Article, and come away knowing how to drill, solder, etc.
I went round and round with Instructables Staff on this. I was posting a massive Project, which I had to break into six parts to make for logical divisions of major components.
Each Article linked to the others. There was even an Index so that it was easy to find the Sections.
Each Section covered in depth 'how it works', 'what parts/materials to get', 'assembly order/tips' and lots of measurements. I even listed part numbers and Vendors.
And lots of 'Final Product' pictures.
But Staff was adamant: Each Section needed a 'Soldering How-to', and not as an external link!
And if a Section had "drill here", then there had to be a "How to Drill" add-on.
On and on it went.
Drilling, soldering, cutting, sanding, measuring all needed the 'baby-steps' in clear detail.
One 'how-to' every one of Six Sections. And the suggestion was made "Maybe if each Soldering tutorial was a little different? We don't want our readers feeling like you cut-and-pasted the same tutorial over and over?" They were asking for each Soldering How-to to be written separately!
I do not take photos as I work. Mile-stones I will take pictures of. Major components finished are ready to use? I take LOTS of pictures.
Drilling a hole in a piece of Steel? I can do a 're-enactment' photo, but that is a 'cheat' in my mind.
If I have to start taking staged photos just for the purpose of fulfilling changing Publication Requirements, then I might as well post Articles about how to write an Instructable.
There is an old old adage: That which Knows, cannot Speak. That which Speaks, cannot Know.
This is me with tools in my hands, and parts being built.
No words, just Knowing how to make it work. Numbers become my language: proportions, ratios, sums, differences, products and quotients become my Inner Dialogue.
After the job is done, I have to back-track, figure out what I did.
Hard to form verbal memories when in a non-verbal state.
I have to look at the Parts that seem to appear in my hands for a very long time and try hard to figure out how I made them.
Then comes the really hard part: Translating what I Know into words that Speak to others.
Monday, August 17, 2015
This is the real problem with my ability to communicate: I am constantly evaluating the other person in terms of 'worthiness', based on my own life-experience as a guide!
How unfair!
I have done metal-working stuff for years, and so when I try to help someone drill a hole in a bracket, I am not very good at hiding how inept I think their skills are!
"Really? Who would hold a drill like that?!" "Are you kidding me? Drilling through sheet-metal without a back-up block? Are you crazy?" "Why are you drilling from the back to the front? That can mess up the finish! Dummy."
The preceding quotes are what is running through my head. I usually don't say this stuff, but I can't stop thinking it!
And I am certain that my tone of voice, the words I choose to use, and how I behave in general all indicate what I am thinking.
That is why I am a lousy 'hand-on' teacher. I have trouble remembering not having learned skills yet.
I assume that people who can't do what I can do are stupid, lazy or incompetent.
I always takes me a while to remember: "Oh, wait, this person is 24 years old, and this is her first project of any kind! Of course she needs help with EVERYTHING!"
BTW, that last revelation usually occurs 1-5 weeks after that person has given up on me as a teacher.
This is nothing new. No change in my meds lead to this.
I have been 'that guy' since I was in my twenties.
Yes, I can be the "Go To!" guy to answer questions and the like, but re-read everything above, and ask yourself if you ever want to ask me very many questions...
I am not arguing for my limitations, just trying to be open about them.
Folks have a right to know what kind of nasty old brute they are dealing with.
How unfair!
I have done metal-working stuff for years, and so when I try to help someone drill a hole in a bracket, I am not very good at hiding how inept I think their skills are!
"Really? Who would hold a drill like that?!" "Are you kidding me? Drilling through sheet-metal without a back-up block? Are you crazy?" "Why are you drilling from the back to the front? That can mess up the finish! Dummy."
The preceding quotes are what is running through my head. I usually don't say this stuff, but I can't stop thinking it!
And I am certain that my tone of voice, the words I choose to use, and how I behave in general all indicate what I am thinking.
That is why I am a lousy 'hand-on' teacher. I have trouble remembering not having learned skills yet.
I assume that people who can't do what I can do are stupid, lazy or incompetent.
I always takes me a while to remember: "Oh, wait, this person is 24 years old, and this is her first project of any kind! Of course she needs help with EVERYTHING!"
BTW, that last revelation usually occurs 1-5 weeks after that person has given up on me as a teacher.
This is nothing new. No change in my meds lead to this.
I have been 'that guy' since I was in my twenties.
Yes, I can be the "Go To!" guy to answer questions and the like, but re-read everything above, and ask yourself if you ever want to ask me very many questions...
I am not arguing for my limitations, just trying to be open about them.
Folks have a right to know what kind of nasty old brute they are dealing with.
Sunday, August 16, 2015
I am better now. Really.
I have been going round and round with Instructables, trying to publish, then to realize something: I really can't tell much about how I built my toys.
Here is the rub: I can't always tell you how I made something. Not right away. Not all at once.
When I am working, I go a little aphasic. I lose the ability to speak or understand much of what is said to me. Not the hyper-focus 'did-not-hear-you-too-busy' but loss of language skills in general!
This makes it hard to remember what I did, or in what sequence.
Forming memories is largely the storing of symbols to act as Indexes for images/sounds/feeling of memory.
Without being verbal, I can't form verbal memories of what my hands do!
The other bit is Muscle-memory. We all have something we do that is so ingrained it doesn't even register in our thoughts that we are doing it. Walking, for example. Ever think about every muscle involved? QWOP is hard, try it with 30 keys...
I do LOTS of different tasks in the Projects I work on. Drilling, tapping, soldering, cutting, bending...you get the idea. I have a large 'library' of simple tasks that I can perform while thinking of the next thing to do. And that slips memory even more. I remember thinking about the design/build process and how it evolves, but "How I soldered this part to the other part" is gone. I can re-construct how "I must have done it this way!", but often the living memory of how I did some bit of work is just gone.
And that makes me a poor candidate for presenting stuff.
I can show off pretty pictures of what I made, and there are some 'progress' photos, but nothing from the times I am actually working. Hands too busy, Camera in the way...
Ugh.
I have been going round and round with Instructables, trying to publish, then to realize something: I really can't tell much about how I built my toys.
Here is the rub: I can't always tell you how I made something. Not right away. Not all at once.
When I am working, I go a little aphasic. I lose the ability to speak or understand much of what is said to me. Not the hyper-focus 'did-not-hear-you-too-busy' but loss of language skills in general!
This makes it hard to remember what I did, or in what sequence.
Forming memories is largely the storing of symbols to act as Indexes for images/sounds/feeling of memory.
Without being verbal, I can't form verbal memories of what my hands do!
The other bit is Muscle-memory. We all have something we do that is so ingrained it doesn't even register in our thoughts that we are doing it. Walking, for example. Ever think about every muscle involved? QWOP is hard, try it with 30 keys...
I do LOTS of different tasks in the Projects I work on. Drilling, tapping, soldering, cutting, bending...you get the idea. I have a large 'library' of simple tasks that I can perform while thinking of the next thing to do. And that slips memory even more. I remember thinking about the design/build process and how it evolves, but "How I soldered this part to the other part" is gone. I can re-construct how "I must have done it this way!", but often the living memory of how I did some bit of work is just gone.
And that makes me a poor candidate for presenting stuff.
I can show off pretty pictures of what I made, and there are some 'progress' photos, but nothing from the times I am actually working. Hands too busy, Camera in the way...
Ugh.
Wednesday, July 29, 2015
Ok, this is a vent/rant!
I post articles on my projects. Sort of a 'look at me' and partly a 'look what can be done!'
I expect some amount of "I don't get it?" or "I did it differently!"
What I was not expecting was spam. Keyword spam, on Instructables.
There is the bit of text going around, faithfully cut-n-pasted over the years, that makes the statement "All solder contains lead. All lead will leach out in flowing water. Hot water carries 10,000 times more lead that cold water." I am paraphrasing, but this text goes on at length with why to 'run your taps' before drinking water from copper pipes.
The source of this text? A Readers Digest article from the 1980's.
Sweat-soldered copper pipe was a 'new thing' back then, and the debate over leaded vs. unleaded solder had just gotten started.
How do I know about the source of this 'article'?
It is making the rounds when the keywords 'solder' or 'soldering' are used on Instructables.
I saw it 4 years ago cropping up on Craft-Distilling boards. Any post with the word 'solder' in it got Spammed by this 'warning'.
I saw it over 10 years ago when I used to post articles about competitive target shooting. 'Lead Warning' post that had nothing to do with air-born lead, everything to do with plumbing. Again, 'lead', 'bullet' or 'shot' would get the same Spam-bot action.
I saw the Original around 20 years ago when I was hanging out in my Dentists office. Yeah, old copy of Readers Digest.
Why does this upset me so much?
Simple: People who do not know are posting information that they do not understand to other people who cannot tell the difference between what is factual and what is not. And these idiots get to feel good about 'posting useful information'.
And the name of the board is "Instructables". Implies that you are getting instructions, right?
Apparently, Johnny Keyclick knows more that people who are actually doing the work.
Well, I say let Johnny keep his little world where everything is 'just so'.
I post articles on my projects. Sort of a 'look at me' and partly a 'look what can be done!'
I expect some amount of "I don't get it?" or "I did it differently!"
What I was not expecting was spam. Keyword spam, on Instructables.
There is the bit of text going around, faithfully cut-n-pasted over the years, that makes the statement "All solder contains lead. All lead will leach out in flowing water. Hot water carries 10,000 times more lead that cold water." I am paraphrasing, but this text goes on at length with why to 'run your taps' before drinking water from copper pipes.
The source of this text? A Readers Digest article from the 1980's.
Sweat-soldered copper pipe was a 'new thing' back then, and the debate over leaded vs. unleaded solder had just gotten started.
How do I know about the source of this 'article'?
It is making the rounds when the keywords 'solder' or 'soldering' are used on Instructables.
I saw it 4 years ago cropping up on Craft-Distilling boards. Any post with the word 'solder' in it got Spammed by this 'warning'.
I saw it over 10 years ago when I used to post articles about competitive target shooting. 'Lead Warning' post that had nothing to do with air-born lead, everything to do with plumbing. Again, 'lead', 'bullet' or 'shot' would get the same Spam-bot action.
I saw the Original around 20 years ago when I was hanging out in my Dentists office. Yeah, old copy of Readers Digest.
Why does this upset me so much?
Simple: People who do not know are posting information that they do not understand to other people who cannot tell the difference between what is factual and what is not. And these idiots get to feel good about 'posting useful information'.
And the name of the board is "Instructables". Implies that you are getting instructions, right?
Apparently, Johnny Keyclick knows more that people who are actually doing the work.
Well, I say let Johnny keep his little world where everything is 'just so'.
Ugh. Head has things, can't make words behave.
Vacuum 'bubble': what makes it look like it extracts energy from from nothing?
Well, this may be due to time not playing along with the expansion of space.
The expanding bubble may only represent space being distorted, and not time within the distortion volume.
Or, time does expand with the bubble, but not 'properly', so the expansion energy is more than should be.
Or, the time that the bubble exists is a 'window' that all the expanding space fits into. All the energy of that space is there, but compressed time-wise?
This is the problem: which thign does what. Is the a soliton like compression going on?
Dang, more questions than answers.
This thing, this Longitudinal Ampere forces thing, has been stuck in my brain since the 1970's!
Arg, I know there is something in there, something significant.
Understanding the how and why of this could give a whole new level of understanding the interactions of energy and matter.
And we would get our flying cars. dammit.
Vacuum 'bubble': what makes it look like it extracts energy from from nothing?
Well, this may be due to time not playing along with the expansion of space.
The expanding bubble may only represent space being distorted, and not time within the distortion volume.
Or, time does expand with the bubble, but not 'properly', so the expansion energy is more than should be.
Or, the time that the bubble exists is a 'window' that all the expanding space fits into. All the energy of that space is there, but compressed time-wise?
This is the problem: which thign does what. Is the a soliton like compression going on?
Dang, more questions than answers.
This thing, this Longitudinal Ampere forces thing, has been stuck in my brain since the 1970's!
Arg, I know there is something in there, something significant.
Understanding the how and why of this could give a whole new level of understanding the interactions of energy and matter.
And we would get our flying cars. dammit.
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